My original intention was to
start the Cabot Trail bike trip from Sydney, using Acadian Lines Bus to
get to and from Cape Breton. This plan changed when my son Bruce offered
to drive me to Sydney, and my wife Norma would pick me up at Baddeck.
This meant that it was not necessary to return to Sydney over Kelly's
Mountain, which shortened the trip by one day.
(Cabot Trail
1998, MAP )
Monday, Aug 10,
to: Driftwood Tent & Trailer Park (902) 794-4519
Raymond C.Howatson
Hwy 125, Exit 2, 2.5 Km. north on Johnston Rd.
The reason I
chose the particular first campsite was because it was near the village
of Florence, Cape Breton. It was there that my father's family lived
when they came to Canada from England around 1905. My father, Herbert
worked in the coal mines at Florence during World War 1, starting when
he was 12 years of age.
Some family memories thought they may
have lived on Pero Street. When I asked a local resident if he knew
where Pero Street was, he didn't know of one, although his name turned
out to be Pero. This will require some more research.
( Evening at Driftwood Tent & Trailer Park, PHOTO )
Tuesday, Aug 11,
50 Km to: Piper's Trailer Court (902) 929-2233
James Piche
Indian Brook, Cabot Trail
I got up early so I could have
breakfast, to have the tent and gear packed and be ready to be on the
road by about 7:00 AM. Cycling an hour before noon is worth 2 hours
after noon, especially if it is going to be a warm day. The day was
sunny, but not uncomfortably warm; just a perfect day to start the trip
around the "Trail". Pedalling up over Kelly's Mountain, I stopped at the
Bras d'Or Lookoff ( PHOTO ) for a
rest and a chance to take some pictures. This is my third bike trip
around the Trail, the most recent being in 1995. I remember stopping on
that trip at the identical spot, where I prepared to have a snack of
sardines and Pita bread, both of which travel very well. As I unloaded
the bike, the Pita bread slipped from my grasp. We all know that Pita
bread is shaped like a wheel. On Kelly's Mountain, it acted like a wheel
and started to roll down the grade, It travelled about 20 feet with me
in pursuit, when it took a sharp turn under the guard rail and went down
over the loose stone on the hill. I could see it there on the rocks, but
when I tried to retrieve it, the stone started to slide, so I retreated
back behind the guard rail. I could just see the headlines in the next
day's "Cape Breton Post". "Elderly cyclist rescued from side of Kelly's
Mountain !" No Pita bread was worth that, so I had my sardines
"straight".
The rock face behind the Lookoff is covered with graffiti,
mostly " Dick & Jane 199?" and the like, although there is one
outstanding art work that is a portrait representing "Kelly" of Kelly's
Mountain ( PHOTO ). There have recent
exchanges between developers and those who wish to preserve the
mountain's pristine state. Legend has it that the ghost of Kelly is
still seen occasionally patrolling his beloved nature preserve.
On the west side of Kelly's Mountain is the Englishtown Ferry,
( PHOTO ) a cable vessel that
travels such a short distance that it appears as though someone with a
good arm could throw a baseball across. One advantage of cycle touring
is that there is always room for a bike on the ferry, while car drivers
may have to wait for several crossings. I arrived at Pipers Campground
around noon and chose a great spot under a tree.
( PHOTO )
The last few Kilometres before arriving at
Piper's there was a clicking sound coming from the right bike pedal. It
was not very loud, but could be a sign of difficulties in the future. I
recall that on a tour a number of years ago, during Hurricane Harry, I
was outside of Parrsboro when the lube seal on that same pedal leaked
and let water into the bearings, and it began to make grinding sounds.
At that time I removed the pedal and bought some 3-in-1 Oil at a corner
store, filled the pedal and pushed the seal back in place. By rights the
pedal should have been replaced after that trip. Now, with the
prospect of climbing Cape Smokey the next day, and the weather forecast
calling for rain, I spent some time improving my chances of getting
around the Trail without any serious bike problems. I would need some
heavy grease to pack the pedals, but there was not a store or gas
station within miles. However I did notice a number of small maintenance
vehicles that were used around the campsite. When a small tractor
returned to the workshop, I followed the driver in and he gave me some
industrial strength grease on a stick; just the thing for worn bearings
and a wet day. To take the pedal apart, the picnic table had boards
that were varying distances apart, which allowed me to enter the pedal
in the wider spaced section and slide it along to the closer spaced
boards. This acted as a vice, and the pedal came apart for packing
without further trouble.
Wednesday, Aug 12,
60 Km. to: Broad Cove Campground (National Park)
173 unserviced, showers, pay phones, no canteen. $14 + $ 2.50 user
fee, tax inc.
The ride from Indian Brook to Cape Smokey is fairly
straight and level, with only one place to stop for supplies and a rest.
There is a general store about half way along, on the left. It offers a
covered area with picnic tables and a wood stove that is free to use by
the public. I expect that not many cyclists ride by without stopping for
a few minutes. Shortly after leaving this rest stop, it began to
shower, as predicted. I was glad that I had taken the time yesterday to
repack the bike pedals. Soon Smokey was in view, and it's location,
which is at right angles to the northerly direction I was travelling,
gave a great view of the hill I would soon be climbing.
My method of hill climbing is to start up the hill, usually in
one of the lowest gears available, stopping without dismounting when I
get tired. After a short rest, usually less than a minute, I start
again, sometimes looking further up the hill and selecting a spot for
the next stop. On the steepest sections, the distance may be only a few
hundred meters. By breaking the hill down into a number of short climbs,
I arrive at the top without being over tired. As I reached near the top
of Smokey, the rain changed to a heavy fog, so I turned on my front
light and the flashing red tail light. Understandably, the cars were
moving extremely slowly so there was no real danger of being struck.
Down the far side of Smokey, which is not nearly as steep,
came Ingonish Beach and then the entrance to the Cape Breton Highlands
National Park. My destination was the Broad Cove Campground which is
just north of the village of Ingonish. It was still raining heavily
from time to time so I didn't expect to set up the tent right away. The
last grocery before the campsite had some great steaks, as well as fresh
mushrooms, which would cook up quite well under the roof of the kitchen
shelter that was right next to my chosen campsite.
My neighbours in the next campsite were a family of three
generations from Hamilton who seemed to be enjoying their Nova Scotia
tour.
That evening, the skies cleared and around 10: PM the Perseid
Meteor Shower, which happens on August 12 every year, began to lighten
up the sky. To see it at a location so far away from city lights and
smog was an unexpected treat. Several of the meteors, of which I saw 20
or so, were as bright as Jupiter, and left white trails in the sky that
lasted for several seconds.
Thursday, Aug 13,
55 Km. to: MacIntosh Brook (National Park)
water, new enclosed kitchen shelter, no showers $14 + $ 2.50 user
fee, tax inc.
As I left the Broad Cove campground in the morning,
a young moose started across the road in front of me. The camera was not
readily available, but the moose stayed on the road long enough for me
to get organized and take several pictures.(
PHOTO 1. ) ,
( PHOTO 2. ) , ( PHOTO 3. )_ I wished that I had a tele lens, but the camera
I carry on the bike was chosen to be as compact as possible.
The ride between Broad Cove and Neil's Harbour offered many
opportunities for picture taking along the Atlantic coast section of the
Trail. ( PHOTO 1. ) , ( PHOTO 2. ) , ( PHOTO 3. )_
As I passed Neil's Harbour on the stretch to Cape North, I met two
cyclists going in the opposite direction. They asked if I had seen any
other cyclists on the road in front of them, which I had not. I didn't
know it was possible to get lost on the Cabot Trail, but apparently it
is. They were part of a large group that must have taken the shore
route at that point, which meant they would miss their meal and rest
stop. A lot of tourists buy a bike tour package which may last for three
or four days, and includes bike rentals, meals, overnight accommodation,
and a "sag wagon" that accompanies the cyclist, carrying all their gear,
food, and even the cyclist if the need arises. These rides cost in the
range of $1000 to $1200 and are heavily booked in summer.
My plan was to continue along to Intervale, a small campground
and picnic site at the base of North Mountain. I hoped to be able to nap
for about a half hour before starting up the most challenging climb of
the Trail. The best laid plans etc. .. As I was finishing my lunch in
the kitchen shelter, a large tour bus pulled up, and out poured about 40
senior citizens who entered the shelter for their lunch. Actually, tour
busses are not supposed to use the Intervale site, because they
overwhelm it, as they did that day. ( PHOTO
)
The climb to the top of North Mountain can be divided into two
parts. The first section gradually rises out of the valley, following
the edge of the mountain for about 5 Km. About half way up, the road
turns and faces the mountain directly, (
PHOTO ) climbing steeply in a series of "S" curves for 2.5 Km
through a gorge until it reaches the plateau at 450 m. A light rain was
falling, with very little wind, being in the shelter of the valley. When
it was time to start the second part of the climb, the wind and rain
increased, coming directly towards me. About a half Kilometre from the
top, I was standing over the bike, in one of the many stops on the hill
that day, when a passing truck stopped and offered me a ride to the top.
I declined with thanks, without being able to tell him how putting my
bike on his truck would have ruined my whole trip.
Getting down off North Mountain requires much less exertion,
but much more caution. At the beginning of the downgrade are three
warning signs, one illustrating a steep grade, another advising drivers
to use low gear, and a third advice of "S" curves ahead. Going
downhill, I was keeping up with motor traffic, and even with the wind in
my face I could notice the strong odour of automobile brake pads
burning. The downhill continues past the "Lone Sheiling" and on to
MacIntosh Brook, which was my destination that day.
Not having
to pedal for the last 10 Km. meant that I arrived quite cold and wet. I
was glad to see that the Parks Department had decided to upgrade the
site by spending a reported $250,000 on a new enclosed kitchen shelter
and washroom facilities. The site is still unmanned, with a system where
the camper is expected to drop the money for overnight tenting into a
vault. When I saw the kitchen shelter, I decided not to set my tent up
that evening but to spend the night in the kitchen shelter, unless
someone told me to do otherwise. After a hot cup of chicken-vegetable
soup, I started to warm up and settle in to the shelter.
About
this time, Martin and Jan, two cyclists (
PHOTO ) from Hamburg, Germany arrived and also decided to
spend the night in the shelter. I had tried without success to start a
fire in the kitchen stove, and although there was plenty of wood, there
was no axe or kindling. Martin was very methodical, using his Swiss Army
knife, he soon had a roaring fire going. I must learn to do that
sometime. A short time later, Renée and Sophie, two cyclists from
Quebec arrived and set up their tent in the field. They brought their
bikes and gear into the shelter to get it dry. We all had a great
evening, sharing stories of our bike trips and travel experiences. All
four cyclists were travelling in the opposite direction, and I didn't
expect to see them again.
Friday, Aug 14,
48 Km. to: Plage Saint Pierre
Giles Deveau, Cheticamp Island, (902) 224-2112
35 unserviced, free showers, laundry, canteen, phones, $13.04
In the morning, the weather started to improve at just the right time,
because the coming day would cover the most spectacular scenery of the
whole Cabot Trail tour. The trail follows the coastline between
Cheticamp and Pleasant Bay with a short turn inland on what would be the
entrance to the park for those travelling up the west side of the
Island. There were many stops along this section to admire the scenery
and take pictures.
( PHOTO 1. ) ,
( PHOTO 2. ) , ( PHOTO 3. )_
Friday, being the fourth day of the
trip, and the town of Cheticamp having a coin operated laundry, it was
important that I take advantage of it. The Plage Saint Pierre
campground is just outside Cheticamp, which is the heart of the Acadian
French population of Cape Breton. Most of the flag poles in the area
were flying two flags. At the top was the red and white Canadian maple
leaf, below which was the red, white and blue stripes with the gold star
inset, the Acadian flag. The message being displayed seemed to say that
they were Canadians, and also Acadians.
That evening at the
campsite, I met a couple from Quebec, who were travelling with two bikes
on the back of their car. They were taking lots of side trips on the
bikes and enjoying their vacation. Robert offered me a cold can of
Labatt's Blue which was a welcome change to the Gatorade I'd been
drinking all week. We spent some time talking about bikes and things and
had an enjoyable evening.
Saturday, Aug 15,
58 Km. to: The Lakes Campsite
The Taylors (902) 248-2360
Lake O'Law, Northeast Margaree
16 unserviced, $ showers, laundry, convenience canteen, $14.00
Starting out early the next morning, I was passing through the village
of Grand Etang when I spotted an "@" symbol in the window of a
convenience store. This meant they had an internet station, so I went
in, and checked my e-mail back home, and also sent some "thank you" and
"wish you were here" messages.
It wasn't long before I got to the Margaree Valley, ( PHOTO ) and continued along past the rich green farm-land
and salmon streams in the area. The ride was easy going, after the hills
of the Cape Breton Highlands. I thought back to my overnight stay in
MacIntosh Brook where I met the cyclists travelling in the other
direction, and wondered where they might be by now. I thought the
Germans were heading toward Sydney, but Renée and Sophie would be
continuing on the Trail, since there car was somewhere on the southwest
part of the island. When I counted the days since we passed, it seemed
possible we would meet again in Baddeck. I would watch for them.
The Lakes Campsite was beautifully located about 30 Km. from
Baddeck, which would leave a very easy ride into town the next morning.
Unfortunately the campsite tried to be all things to all people. It had
go-carts which ran steadily through most of the daylight hours. Their
noise must have annoyed the neighbours who lived directly across the
road. These people played loud rock music to exceed whatever decibel
level that came from the campground. Other than that it was a great park
with many secluded tenting sites among the trees.
Although I
had no need of a campfire, I thought I should try to start a fire again,
hopefully with more success than I had at MacIntosh Brook. This time I
was in no hurry, and was more methodical. Still no luck ! I wonder if
they have evening courses in fire lighting at the Community College ?
Sunday, Aug 16,
25 Km. to: Bras d'Or Lakes Campground
Erich & Rosmarie Hausmann, (3 mi. west of Baddeck), (902) 295-2329
33 unserviced, free showers, laundry, no convenience store, $16.00
min.
I arrived at the Baddeck campsite about 10:00 AM and set up
the tent. After unloading most of the gear into the tent, and heading
off into town, I remembered that I had not brought my lock with me. When
I got back to the campsite, I decided to close up the tent, even though
the sun was shining, and there was not a cloud in the sky.
I
spent most of the day at the Alexander Graham Bell Museum, enjoying the
fact that I could spend as much time there as I wanted. When I was ready
to leave, I looked out the window and saw that it was pouring rain, so I
went back and looked at some of the many photographs on display. When it
stopped raining I drove into town and had the only restaurant meal of
the trip; a great salmon dinner while enjoying the view of Baddeck
harbour.
As I was passing the Baddeck Tourist Information
Centre, I saw two bikes that looked familiar. Renée and Sophie were
there checking out campsites. They ended up coming to the Bras D'Or
Campsite, where I was staying. It was really convenient to stay there,
since it was only about 5 Km from town. (
PHOTO )
We continued the conversations that we had started in MacIntosh
Brook. Renée and Sophie have been friends since early childhood, and
have had many bike trips, including one to France. We talked of many
things, some serious, like Canadian unity, and the world as viewed by
different generations, to the more light hearted, like the merits of
eating peanut butter from the jar and how the logo on the Nova Scotia
licence plate appears to some people to more resemble mountains than the
Bluenose.
I called Norma that evening and arranged to meet her the next
morning at the Baddeck Tourist Information Centre. And another bike
tour was over.
Back to Top of Page
Back to Allen Hodgson's Bike Page
Back to Allen Hodgson's Home Page
Allen Hodgson e-mail ahodgson@accesscable.net